Train to Agra

Last Saturday morning we woke up before dawn to catch our train to Agra. The taxi arrived at our gate exactly on time—a good omen! The driver, however, could speak no English and our limited Hindi wasn’t much help. We were finally able to communicate that we wanted to go to the train station and not the airport. We arrived at the station in plenty of time, the train appeared on schedule, and we were soon on our way.

Upon arrival in Agra, we arranged to have a taxi take us around for the day. Our driver convinced us that it would be better to see the Taj Mahal in the morning because it would be less crowded. He was right. There were no long lines and we soon had our first breathtaking view of this monument that Emperor Shah Jahan built in memory of his beloved second wife Mumtaz Mahal. We were told that 20,000 people worked on its construction from 1631 to 1653.

Needless to say, the bottom two photos are of the Taj. The top photos are of the Agra Fort and of the Itimad-Ud-Daulah or the baby Taj. The two in the middle are of Fatehpur Sikri. Our guide told us that design of the pillar at Fatehpur Sikri allegedly represents the three religions of Islam, Hinduism, and Christianity.

It’s hard to describe the Taj without using superlatives. I especially like Tagore’s description of it as—“a tear drop on the face of eternity.” The white inlaid marble and the unique symmetry of the oriental architecture combine to create that effect. Considering the ravages of history, it’s hard to believe it has been preserved so well throughout the centuries. It still looks immaculate.

At noon we took the taxi to visit Fatehpur Sikri, the capital city Emperor Akbar began building forty kilometers west of Agra in 1571 and abandoned fourteen years later. Our tour guide was especially keen to tell us that Akbar had a Hindu, a Christian, and a Muslim wife. He pointed out the legendary palaces of each wife in the royal quarters of the city. I was especially intrigued by the way the architecture of the city maximized the use of water and air to make a comfortable and habitable space in this dry, hot climate. It has things to teach contemporary designers of urban spaces.

The Jama Aasjid mosque is beside the palace area of Fatehpur Sikri. The tomb of Sufi saint Shaikh Salim Chishti is in the courtyard of the mosque. Emperor Akbar credited the saint for the long awaited birth of his first surviving son. Our guide said that the mosque is not maintained by the government and relies on the donations of visitors for its upkeep. He entreated me to buy a cloth and some flowers to put on the tomb—the proceeds of which purportedly would go to support needy children. I was also given a thread to tie on the marble lattice screen of the tomb as a prayer for any special request I might have.

Our day was now well spent and we headed back to the Shanti Lodge, our hotel in Agra. It’s a budget hotel along a narrow, winding lane in the old city. The management and cleanliness of the hotel is basic at best. The most that it has going for it is a great view of the Taj Mahal from its roof top restaurant. We loved ordering cups of chai and absorbing the view at dusk and early in the morning.

The next morning we hired an auto rickshaw to take us to some other places in Agra. First, we went to Agra Fort, a massive red sandstone fort and palace complex. More than any other place we visited, it gave us a sense of the might of the Mughal Empire during the height of its power. The massive walls of the fort once enclosed an entire inner city. During that time period Americans were still living in log cabins.

Next we went to the Jama Masjid mosque built by Shah Jahan’s daughter in 1648. It’s a still functioning mosque in general disrepair. We were met at the gate by a toothless old guide who showed us around. Again, we were asked for a donation in return for special prayers. As we were leaving, our guide asked if we could give a little something for him personally. Is this an indication of the status of Islam in Indian society and of the atrophy of historical religions in the modern world?

Our final historical site visit was the Itimad-Ud-Daulah tomb nicknamed the Baby Taj. It was built in 1622 by Emperor Jehangir’s wife Nur Jahan in memory of her father who migrated to India from Persia. The nickname is apt. Though much smaller in scale, it has the same beautiful architectural symmetry as the Taj. In addition, it features exquisite panels of inlaid marble that have been preserved through the centuries.

We next visited a shop where craftsmen were creating inlaid marble artifacts. They are beautiful pieces using the same craftsmanship as seen in the historical monuments. Another shop was weaving Persian rugs. They wanted to sell us their wares which were out of reach on our MCC allowance. So we returned to the old city to visit some smaller shops.

I soon ran out of endurance as hawkers determinedly tried to sell us their wares—refusing to take no for an answer. After much bargaining, Ruth finally managed to buy a small jewelry box made of inlaid marble. We then retired to the rooftop restaurant at the Shanti Lodge and waited for the night train back to Delhi.

The press of poor vendors, drivers, laborers, and beggars in the old city speaks of another India that is not part of the promises of globalization. Has it always been thus? Was there the same press of human need during the reign of the Mughals? My study of European history tells me there was desperate poverty in Europe during the same time period. And the New Testament accounts of Jesus’ life and ministry in first century Palestine tell the same story. What is our response as Christians and religious people?